Saturday, May 31, 2008
Why didn't we get a Mac sooner?
So macs are ridiculously user-friendly. Everyone, you were right. Bask away.
Shalom, Salaam, Peace - and Free Wi Fi!!
Jerusalem. What is there to say about it? It's the capital of Israel, a modern city and also the country's largest. Israel's parliament, the Knesset, is here, as is its supreme court and prime minister headquarters. There are highrises, lowrises, shops, restaurants, cafes. Culture abounds - with internationally recognized artists, musicians, actors. World leaders visit all the time. Almost every language you can think of is spoken here. In this respect, it's a modern, international city in a democratic society.
Modern Jerusalem. This is the "new city". Construction everywhere with many foreigners buying second homes here.
Except it's not that simple.
Its history dates back anywhere from 4,000-10,000 BCE, depending on who you ask. Either way, that's freakin' old. It's the birthplace of monotheism and critical for many of the world's religions. The holiest city in Judaism, third-holiest in Islam, and where Jesus just happens to be buried. Jesus, peeps! That's big stuff.
Therein lies the lifelong dichotomy of this city. It wants to be progressive and modern. Really, it does. New York. Paris. Rome. Jerusalem. It kind of works. But on the other hand, it never really will.
Imagine, if you will, taking a tour. You walk on a freshly paved sidewalk, surrounded by shops. Zara, H&M, all the latest fashions. "Here, on your left, is the newest sushi bar, also the trendiest nightspot....".
Impossible to describe the smells of all these spices and incense all mixed together. Not to mention adding in men on the corners smoking hookahs.
You turn the corner. Suddenly you're on cobblestone a car could never go on. "Here, on your right, is where Jesus was resurrected. That corner is where David fought Goliath. Oh, and this was where Solomon did his thinking".
Far right, sign in Arabic in East Jerusalem, in the "shuk".
Middle, woman praying at the Western Wall.
See what I mean? The modern thing will never fully work.
The other dilemma with Jerusalem is that everyone and their mother has a claim to this place. Come here and you will see the Arab-Israeli conflict with your own eyes. Fundamentalists on all sides. Haredim and Arabs fighting it out for who can have the higher birth rate. Modern life colliding with tradition.....and losing. Clearly. The weirdest feeling was watching Palestinian children run around, thinking one could have a bomb strapped to them in the near future. Because it's out of this poverty, right here, that Hamas rules. Sad, but don't be fooled, it's true. Not the most comfortable place for an American Jew to be walking around. Let's just say it was obvious Poker Chick did not belong and was not wanted walking around there.
It looks old, but if you look carefully you'll see the "Free Wi Fi" on the orange sign in the picture above.
In reality, it's Israel's capital, but the world does not acknowledge this. It's also the capital claimed by the Palestinians. Or, if you ask someone else, it belongs to the world. Huh. Clearly, an issue.
No matter what happens, it'll always be a history of unbelievable historical significance. To turn a corner and suddenly feel like you've stepped back in time hundreds or even thousands of years is indescribable.
Woman selling grape leaves in East Jerusalem.
It's impossible to talk middle east politics without having seen this for yourself. It will change your whole perspective. Go. Whatever you believe, go. There's nothing else like it.
Modern Jerusalem. This is the "new city". Construction everywhere with many foreigners buying second homes here.
Except it's not that simple.
Its history dates back anywhere from 4,000-10,000 BCE, depending on who you ask. Either way, that's freakin' old. It's the birthplace of monotheism and critical for many of the world's religions. The holiest city in Judaism, third-holiest in Islam, and where Jesus just happens to be buried. Jesus, peeps! That's big stuff.
Therein lies the lifelong dichotomy of this city. It wants to be progressive and modern. Really, it does. New York. Paris. Rome. Jerusalem. It kind of works. But on the other hand, it never really will.
Imagine, if you will, taking a tour. You walk on a freshly paved sidewalk, surrounded by shops. Zara, H&M, all the latest fashions. "Here, on your left, is the newest sushi bar, also the trendiest nightspot....".Impossible to describe the smells of all these spices and incense all mixed together. Not to mention adding in men on the corners smoking hookahs.
You turn the corner. Suddenly you're on cobblestone a car could never go on. "Here, on your right, is where Jesus was resurrected. That corner is where David fought Goliath. Oh, and this was where Solomon did his thinking".
Far right, sign in Arabic in East Jerusalem, in the "shuk".
Middle, woman praying at the Western Wall.
See what I mean? The modern thing will never fully work.
The other dilemma with Jerusalem is that everyone and their mother has a claim to this place. Come here and you will see the Arab-Israeli conflict with your own eyes. Fundamentalists on all sides. Haredim and Arabs fighting it out for who can have the higher birth rate. Modern life colliding with tradition.....and losing. Clearly. The weirdest feeling was watching Palestinian children run around, thinking one could have a bomb strapped to them in the near future. Because it's out of this poverty, right here, that Hamas rules. Sad, but don't be fooled, it's true. Not the most comfortable place for an American Jew to be walking around. Let's just say it was obvious Poker Chick did not belong and was not wanted walking around there.
It looks old, but if you look carefully you'll see the "Free Wi Fi" on the orange sign in the picture above.
In reality, it's Israel's capital, but the world does not acknowledge this. It's also the capital claimed by the Palestinians. Or, if you ask someone else, it belongs to the world. Huh. Clearly, an issue.
No matter what happens, it'll always be a history of unbelievable historical significance. To turn a corner and suddenly feel like you've stepped back in time hundreds or even thousands of years is indescribable.
Woman selling grape leaves in East Jerusalem.
It's impossible to talk middle east politics without having seen this for yourself. It will change your whole perspective. Go. Whatever you believe, go. There's nothing else like it.
A little somethin'
More posts tonight. Am back from the longest flights, ever, but here are a few more travel highlights until I can post more:
- The sun and the sea are a fabulous cure for the common cold
- You can bargain in the drugstore in Israel. Who knew?
- Facebook is amazing. Seeing a 35+ Australian traveler log in at a coffeeshop in Amsterdam to update her profile....that is a small world!
Wednesday, May 28, 2008
Tel Aviv is for Yuppies
Poker Chick is sad to report that for the first time ever, she's not coming back from Tel Aviv with bags and bags of souvenirs and goodies*. Why? She can't afford it. Yes, we've been through the weak dollar argument. But it's clearly more than that. The Israeli economy is booming.
The average 2-bedroom apartment in TA probably costs more than the equivalent of $500,000USD. Coffeeshops and fancy boutiques are everywhere. Shoes for 1,000 shekels. 1,000 shekels! Shoes? All the same stores as everywhere else too: Steve Madden, Aldo, American Apparel, Kookai, fancy French stores. The french are everywhere here. Did we mention the place is full of French? PC has never seen so many stores with "On parle francais" in the window before. Anyway.
So there was no point in buying anything. First of all, the unique stuff was not so unique anymore. PC even came across a gorgeous pair of earrings that she already owns! This store got them from the same distributor in India that the NY store she had bought her pair at did. Is that a sentence?
Even the food got fancy. Yeah, you can still get falafel, shwarma and pizza. But more common are gelaterias, creperies and fancy coffees. You think a frappucino is good? It's got nothing on this stuff. Even the coffee is fancy. A regular coffee at breakfast is a "caffe afooch" - literally translated "opposite coffee" but basically it's a cappucino. That's the basic stuff.
Like any country, poverty is still a reality. Big Boy claims 1/3 of Israelis live at or below the poverty line. This may be true. But these people couldn't even come close to affording living in Tel Aviv. It's been called the"Israeli Riviera" for a while, but this is the first time it really seems to have earned that title. We'll post a "Riviera" pic when we get back.
It's tough to partake, when one is fromthe poor country. a.k.a. New York. Poker Chick's gotta go get some water now. For 9 NIS a bottle. Papaya juice was even more. Sheesh.
*Ok, yes, she did buy 3 pairs of shoes, a present for a friend, and half a wardrobe for the mini. But you had to expect a minimum, right?
The average 2-bedroom apartment in TA probably costs more than the equivalent of $500,000USD. Coffeeshops and fancy boutiques are everywhere. Shoes for 1,000 shekels. 1,000 shekels! Shoes? All the same stores as everywhere else too: Steve Madden, Aldo, American Apparel, Kookai, fancy French stores. The french are everywhere here. Did we mention the place is full of French? PC has never seen so many stores with "On parle francais" in the window before. Anyway.
So there was no point in buying anything. First of all, the unique stuff was not so unique anymore. PC even came across a gorgeous pair of earrings that she already owns! This store got them from the same distributor in India that the NY store she had bought her pair at did. Is that a sentence?
Even the food got fancy. Yeah, you can still get falafel, shwarma and pizza. But more common are gelaterias, creperies and fancy coffees. You think a frappucino is good? It's got nothing on this stuff. Even the coffee is fancy. A regular coffee at breakfast is a "caffe afooch" - literally translated "opposite coffee" but basically it's a cappucino. That's the basic stuff.
Like any country, poverty is still a reality. Big Boy claims 1/3 of Israelis live at or below the poverty line. This may be true. But these people couldn't even come close to affording living in Tel Aviv. It's been called the"Israeli Riviera" for a while, but this is the first time it really seems to have earned that title. We'll post a "Riviera" pic when we get back.
It's tough to partake, when one is fromthe poor country. a.k.a. New York. Poker Chick's gotta go get some water now. For 9 NIS a bottle. Papaya juice was even more. Sheesh.
*Ok, yes, she did buy 3 pairs of shoes, a present for a friend, and half a wardrobe for the mini. But you had to expect a minimum, right?
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